A man walks confidently through a green field, wearing a denim jacket and patterned jeans, with rolling hills and a pastel sky in the background.

Marine Serre has landedExplore the designer’s material magic

Marine Serre is the designer whose label has become one of fashion’s biggest obsessions. To celebrate the launch of her brand on Zalando, we sat down for a chat about her work, her star sign, and her Staffordshire bull terrier.

By Justin Kendall

30 September 2024 · 4 min read

As I sit down with Marine Serre, it’s a New Moon — a time for self-reflection, introspection, and the setting of new intentions. It’s fitting, given that the designer’s name has become synonymous worldwide with her brand’s crescent-shaped logo. And it’s the first topic we address. “The moon represents the cycle of renewal, and the idea that beauty can emerge from even the darkest moments,” Serre tells me. “While it carries an environmental message, the logo also holds deep cultural and spiritual significance: it evokes religion, mysticism, femininity, and the moon’s historic associations with cycles and divinity.”

Born near Corrèze in France, Marine Serre is (like me) a Sagittarius — which goes some way towards explaining her seemingly boundless ambition. “I’m naturally wild, optimistic, and always seeking new experiences,” Serre says, with characteristic energy. “This aligns with my approach to fashion. [...] I thrive on creativity and freedom.” Perhaps it’s that in-built “wild optimism” that allowed Serre to rocket from a student at La Cambre to a global phenomenon in just a few years.

Pseudoscience aside, some things have motivated Serre from the get-go. One of them is community. “Collaboration is at the heart of everything we do,” she says. “I believe in working with people rather than having them work for me, because it fosters a creative environment where everyone’s voices and perspectives are valued.” In terms of the brand, this goes beyond merely an approach to design; instead, “it influences how we approach sustainability, innovation, and production. It’s about the world of tomorrow.”

Marine Serre, photographed by Marc Hibbert.

Under the moon

“I’m naturally wild, optimistic, and always seeking new experiences.”

- Marine Serre

Environmental and social concerns have been at the heart of Marine Serre from the beginning. The first collections addressed head-on the collective grief wrought by the terror attacks on France and Belgium in the 2010s; she was also an early pioneer of the now-ubiquitous concept of upcycling. ‘Dystopian’ was a word often thrown around in relation to Serre’s garments: masks were a regular feature, and wearers were often wrapped (or cocooned? shielded?) in layers of close-fitting fabrics. The early work wasn’t quite angry — her inaugural collection was entitled ‘Radical Call For Love’— but it was certainly an unapologetic response to the most pressing issues of the time.

Two models stand together in a grassy field at sunset, wearing stylish outfits: one in denim and the other in a snake-print suit, holding a matching bag.

High fashion you can move in

Since then, Serre has come a long way — a fact that necessarily brings with it challenges for a deeply political designer. “As my name and brand have gained global recognition,” she reflects, “my role in fashion’s political landscape has evolved. With increased visibility, there’s a broader platform to address issues, but also a heightened responsibility. [...] It’s about staying true to our core values — inclusivity, feminism, diversity, sustainability, while effectively managing the complexities of a global market.”

Operating what is now a global company hasn’t dimmed Serre’s conscience. For first-use materials, the brand sticks closely to environmental standards, sourcing natural fibres, organic cotton, mulesing-free wool, and viscose from sustainably-sourced forests. Serre also prioritises recycled fibres and takes steps to ensure the brand’s processes are free from harmful chemicals. This rigorousness is “not merely a part of [the brand’s] supply chain,” the designer highlights, “but a vital element of [the] creative process.” It ensures the clothes are “not only innovative and stylish, but also align with [Serre’s] values of sustainability and ethical production.”

“It’s about staying true to our core values — inclusivity, feminism, diversity, sustainability — while effectively managing the complexities of a global market.”

- Marine Serre

Aesthetically, this collection bears all the hallmarks of Serre’s hand. The silhouettes may be varied, but the interplay between the athletic and the dreamy, along with lashings of the moon monogram, make them unmistakable. This season marked a crucial shift: it was the first time the brand has ever showcased a dedicated menswear line, and Serre herself was also appointed as guest designer for this year’s Pitti Uomo. The Marine Serre universe is expanding, and the FW24 show’s setting reflected it: presented at a warehouse space in Paris called Ground Control (yes, Serre is a David Bowie fan), the space contained a Serre-themed café, florist, record store, and pizzeria.

Marine Serre’s world is holistic. There is no part of the designer’s life, work, values, or community that doesn’t influence one another; they form delicately balanced ecosystems. Perhaps this is why she’s drawn to symbols: Serre delights in all that is dusky, in-between, open to interpretation. “People often find their own meanings in symbols,” she says, “and that’s the beauty of it. While the moon motif carries deep personal significance for me, I’m always intrigued by how others interpret it all over the world. Whether they see it as a symbol of resilience, femininity, or something entirely different, each perspective adds another layer to its story.”

Raising the bar

“People often find their own meanings in symbols, and that’s the beauty of it.”

- Marine Serre

These layers are found in surprising places. My final question to Serre is about a particularly striking piece from the collection: a black t-shirt with a loud print of a Staffordshire bull terrier splashed across its front. The dog is Serre’s own, and his name — Soma — means King of the Moon. “He is a big part of my life,” laughs Serre, “so you will see him more and more.” For Marine Serre, everything is connected, nothing off limits. Her definition of community is expansive. In constructing a new, optimistic kind of brand for the modern age, she leaves no stone unturned.