Handbag SOS

Handbag SOSMake your bag look better for longer

Welcome to Closet Care, the series full of expert tips on making your wardrobe last longer. In this episode, stylist, art director and vintage leather lover Nessie tells us everything she knows about giving your bag the love it deserves.

30 May 2025 · 4 min read

Closet Care is a part of our series to help you to wear your wardrobe better. For more on how to care for your closet and make the most of your clothes, visit Stories on Zalando.

“An investment bag is more than a seasonal trend,” says Berlin-based stylist and art director, Neslihan Değerli, aka Nessie. “It’s a timeless piece that holds value, emotionally and financially. It’s the kind of bag that elevates your wardrobe year after year, becoming part of your identity and daily ritual.”

Nessie knows what she’s talking about. She’s been collecting vintage leather for years and has invested in her fair share of grails. “I started [collecting bags] out of curiosity and nostalgia. I loved the craftsmanship and unique character of older bags. Over time, it became a way to tell fashion history through accessories. Each vintage find holds stories and quirks that no new piece can replicate.”

Her first big buy was a Céline box bag from the Phoebe Philo era. “It was my first serious designer purchase after landing a milestone project. I wore it almost every day for years — meetings, travel, events — and it’s aged beautifully, which makes it feel even more personal now.”

But for an investment bag to stand the test of time, for it to age beautifully and hold memories in every crease, it needs to be properly cared for. And that’s the main reason we’ve linked up with Nessie today — to get all her top tips on cleaning, caring, and customising the pieces so they can look better for longer. As she puts it: “It’s an act of love and respect for something that’s served you well.”

CLEANING

What are your three golden rules for cleaning bags? Always spot-test first. Use minimal, gentle products — less is more. Clean regularly, not just when there’s visible dirt.

How do you treat different types of leather? For smooth leather, I apply a pH-neutral leather cleaner with a cloth and follow up with conditioner. For pebbled leather, I only use a soft brush (one specifically made for textured leather) as it works well to reach into the texture. Suede gets a completely different treatment — dry brush only, and maybe a bit of vinegar on stains.

What about other materials like canvas, nylon, or wicker? Any hot tips there? Canvas can handle a bit of soap and water, but always avoid soaking it. Nylon loves micellar water for gentle refreshes. For wicker — dry cleaning methods only. A toothbrush and compressed air do wonders.

Can you ever put a bag in the washing machine? Why not? Never. Even for nylon, the spin and water pressure warp the shape, damage the lining, and ruin hardware. It’s not worth the shortcut.

What are some common mistakes people make when caring for their bags? Any myths to bust? Over-cleaning is a big one—people think scrubbing harder equals cleaner. Also, using baby wipes sounds harmless, but they can degrade the leather long term. And please, never hang bags by their straps for storage!

At what point do you realise this isn’t a DIY job and should go to a professional? If the leather is cracking, hardware is damaged, or stains are deep-set, don’t experiment. You risk worsening the issue. A skilled bag spa can work miracles.

A gloved hand cleans a black leather bag with soapy foam on a blue surface, emphasizing meticulous care and maintenance.

CARING

How do you repair cracked or warped leather? You can soften minor cracks with a leather balm, but anything deep needs professional help. For warped leather, stuffing the bag gently and applying heat with caution (never direct heat) can slowly reshape it.

How do you polish and restore a worn-out bag? Clean first, then condition. For shine, a leather cream in a matching tone can refresh the finish. Buff gently with a soft cloth in circular motions — it’s more of a massage than a scrub.

Any tips on caring for the strap? Why is this important? Straps bear the most weight and friction, so they wear faster. Rotate bags often, avoid overloading them, and treat straps with the same care as the body — clean, condition and don’t tug.

What are your best storage tips? Why is this important? Stuff the bag with acid-free paper to hold its shape. Use a dust bag (or pillow case) and store upright, not hanging. Climate matters too: avoid humidity or direct sunlight. Proper storage is the secret to longevity.

**CUSTOMISING **

What do you love most about customising bags? It makes the piece truly yours — your style, your touch. It adds soul to something mass-produced.

What are your favourite ways to customise a bag? Hand-painted initials, scarf-wrapped handles, or switching out straps with something vintage or beaded. I also love charms or pins that hint at personal stories.

Where do you get your inspiration from? Vintage markets, street style, and travel. Japanese minimalism mixed with French irreverence often sparks ideas for me.

Black leather crossbody bag centered on a purple surface, accompanied by a wooden brush, tools, and a tray with various items.

Any final words of wisdom? Don’t wait for a bag to look dirty before caring for it. And rotate your bags regularly — rest is underrated in preservation. A well-rested bag lives longer.