Sharp spring suitingBy poet, model & activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal

It’s no secret that activist, poet and model Kai-Isaiah Jamal is known for their great style. In this edition, they give us a lesson in genreless, genderless tailoring, and prove that a suit is for more than just the corporate commute.

By Ruhi Parmar Amin

31 March 2024 · 5 min read

Tailoring is a man’s game? Kai-Isaiah Jamal thinks not. The poet, model, and trans visibility activist has made sharp suiting something of a personal signature in the most avant-garde and gender-bending of ways. At its best, tailoring can represent so much in a single look — at once smart and casual, masculine and feminine, period and modern — but approaching it can feel daunting. A suit is a bold statement that requires thought, refinement, and the perfect fit, so, for this GUEST EDIT, we’ve enlisted Kai’s help to prove, once and for all, that tailoring is for more than a corporate commute.

Of all the people in the fashion world who could have advised us about tailoring, Kai is one of the most qualified. They’ve been featured on the cover of British Vogue, been described by Virgil Abloh as “the voice of their generation,” and in 2022 became the first Black trans model to walk the runway for Louis Vuitton…in a gorgeous mahogany suit. Constantly hailed as fashion and activism’s next big thing, Kai shows no sign of slowing this year. They’ve been walking shows from J.W. Anderson in Milan to the instantly classic Jean Paul Gaultier x Simone Rocha runway at London Fashion Week, and they’re fresh from features on the covers of Highsnobiety and ES magazines. On the seemingly rare occasion that they can dress themselves, they describe their personal style as “expansive, authentic, and unrehearsed.” All things we’re looking for in our tailoring looks this spring.

Spring suiting with Kai

Fashion is central to Kai’s life and work. “My style definitely informs my writing,” they say. “You’ll often see a fashion reference in there. And I think my clothes and activism work together a lot. The clothes are sometimes the protection for what I’m fighting against.” As a performer and a writer, Kai was the first-ever poet in residence at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts. For their style guidance, they look towards other leading cultural and political figures like Missy Elliot, citing the rapper’s rise to streetwear icon status without the need for revealing outfits. For Kai, tailoring is a way to transcend today’s implicit boundaries and social codes: “If and when I choose, I can step out of my gender, sexuality, and social class with tailoring.”

Suiting is a key symbol in queer history, too, and Kai mentions how they felt represented at a young age by lesbians and non-binary people wearing suits. Nonetheless, the situation is nuanced. “For centuries, we have always paired masculinity with tailoring,” they say, “and though we speak a lot about powerful women in suits, we often don’t recognise that those women still exist under the male gaze by having to oppose it.” For Kai, suiting isn’t all about empowerment, nor should it be an imitation of the masculinity with which it’s been associated for so long. “We lean towards the idea of powerful, but sometimes I feel more powerful in a Miu Miu pant and a thigh-high. I think [a suit] should make you feel like any good garment does — gorgeous, in whatever way that manifests for each individual.”

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“I can step out of my gender, sexuality, and social class with tailoring.”

- Kai-Isaiah Jamal

How to achieve that feeling? Well, Kai’s picked out a few of their favourite pieces to elevate your look. Up first are Wood Wood’s Nathaniel trousers, which Kai loves for the material. “When I want to shake it up without changing the silhouette,” they say, “I often look at the fabric. A nylon blend suit means it has a streetwear twist, and leans into the familiarity of sportswear.” Another way to switch it up is to pull a statement skirt, belt or kilt over the trousers. Kai’s suggestion is for Materiel’s lined belt maxi skirt: at once understated and edgy, it’s also perfect if you need an easy look change halfway through the night. To complete the outfit, GmbH’s Hawi mules are a great option for the feet — the patent croc finish and sling back adds “another level of class” — and MM6’s Numbers bag makes for an effortless, genderless and versatile accessory.

When styling a springtime look, Kai would start with the glasses — “especially for those bright and crisp London mornings.” For a jacket, they’re not fussy: “Every day I tap into a new character, iteration, or version. I can take a wool peacoat, a checked trench or a leather boxed jacket and make them all work.” As for the bottoms, in any other situation, Kai would opt for something baggy. But for slacks and suit trousers, something a little more fitted is preferred, ending just above the ankle, with a strong seam and a smart belt. When asked about brands, Kai says they love Dior for the fit, and Wales Bonner for their sporty, modern takes on tailoring. They also mention Tom Ford for the class, Gucci for the sex, and Ferragamo for their unisex approach to tailoring.

Then again, Kai caveats, take all this with a pinch of salt. “My style edit won’t be your style edit, so know this isn’t gospel. It’s just some tips that work for me and may work for you.” Similarly, don’t obsess over the rules. Start with a neutral base in terms of colour, texture, and silhouette. “So many of us repeat fashion no-nos from the past, like to avoid clashing patterns or to never wear black and brown together…but if you feel your best self in it, why not?” Not one to shy away from rule-breaking, Kai’s approach is everything that was promised — imaginative, emotional, and thoughtful. So, whatever you end up going for, their parting words of wisdom ring loud and clear: “Don’t just put something on. Put it on with intention.”