Johannes Boehl Cronau’s penchant for hosting has always been a catalyst for creating something that goes beyond a typical fashion brand. “What excited me was not just a brand, but creating a house where I could host, invite, and serve as an overall aesthetic environment for events and experimentation — similar to the old couturiers in Paris,” says the founder and designer of ioannes. While the said house is a work in progress, the brand is already acting upon the designer’s dream at its Berlin studio, where there, in the ioannes universe, one of “little carelessness and tongue-in-cheek eclecticism, sweatpants and stilettos” grows steadily and “emotional depth flirts with drama.”

Playful, feminine, figure-hugging and — ‘girly’ — garments have been at the core of the brand since launching in 2019. They are usually draping and mixed in with soft palettes, and conceptual floral prints. However, as the designer and his internet cult-following highlights, the most important characteristic of ioannes still pins down to comfort and wearability. “I ask the girls who work with me how they feel; if the idea and the feeling we want to express translates,” he explains. It’s through his “mainly female” team’s feedback that he ensures his designs never forgets to relate to the 21st Century woman. “The garments should work on the body, no slipping or pulling, so you can go on with more important business in your life.”

Clearly, Boehl Cronau’s first-hand notes are working, having attracted multiple heavyweight style and cultural icons like Rihanna and Kylie Jenner in the short span. But, despite the tick of approval from the big names, Boehl Cronau continues to look towards the future: growth and evolution of ioannes. Sitting down with Boehl Cronau in Berlin, we discuss staying playful, defining the 21st Century woman and her longing for ‘girly’ garments that are more powerful than you think.

We’re curious — for designers, there are usually two paths they can take: to work for a big house or to start their own label. You did the latter. Why did you decide to be independent instead of working at an already-established brand?

Youthful recklessness and megalomania, I guess [laughs]. I have two memorable quotes from people on my path; one was my mentor in Paris, who said, “Learn on other people’s money.” The other said, “If you don’t start in your twenties, you will never start after having had a stable job and earned money. You will not be able to go through inconvenience again.”

And now your garments are worn by famed names like Rihanna and Kylie Jenner. How did it feel to see your designs on them?

It’s amazing to see Rihanna and Kylie wearing my clothes, especially when it was their purchase. But honestly, I’m equally excited to see everyone wear my designs and share them on social media. It’s the biggest compliment for me to see that my designs resonate with people on a personal level and that they feel proud to wear them. This is why I started designing clothes in the first place.

Circling back to the beginnings: What was the first garment you designed for ioannes?

Maybe not the first, but the one I am proud to put my signature under is a mini dress that combines a lot of worlds. I never really designed clothes and was more conceptual and abstract during my MA at Central Saint Martins. So I started with a dress I considered absolute ease and elegance: a mini dress Carrie Bradshaw wore in Sex and the City. I exposed the cutting lines, chose a lingerie material for extra comfort, and printed over the finished garment in a cherry blossom woodcut design I found in Japan to make the process visible. It’s still one of my favourite pieces.

Prints also play a big part in your Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. What did the collection’s mood board look like?

It started with looking at pieces from past collections I felt a strong connection with. Pieces that capture the essence of what I’m trying to achieve the best. We wanted to work with an archive lace we had. After trying out a lot of things, I ended up using it as a stencil in a similar way to the Japanese woodcut from my first collection. I am also very interested in transitional outfits, vacation dressing, and what people wear after a day on the beach, with their tops and bikini bottoms.

Your collections often include elegant dresses and skirts. How do you see your garments fit into everyday dressing?

I don’t like to divide clothes into day-to-day and evening. Why not mix it up? We are in a phase where we see old strategies and patterns no longer serve us. Mentally and socially. Lines are blurred between work and play. Comfort and flexibility are the focus, as well as individual style that feeds on vintage and contemporary that represents the spontaneity of daily life.

On your website, it reads, “The brand goes to the source of what it means to be a 21st Century woman”. Which needs and values does the 21st Century woman you want to dress have?

Ultimately, I want to make clothes for moments when women don’t feel the need to armour themselves or hide and when they can embrace their strengths and weaknesses. The aim is to foster a culture where women share their authentic selves, transcending societal norms and limitations.

There’s a new longing for feminine or ‘girly’ garments. Why do you think that is, and what role does it play at ioannes?

I perceive it as a reclaiming of power by women. The embrace of ‘girly’ and figure-hugging flower print dresses, for instance, holds the same significance and demands the same respect as a structured black shoulder blazer. Ultimately, it’s about supporting and being a part of a woman’s journey to love her body. In the unique way that ioannes pieces embrace the body, they provide a sense of safety and empowerment.

Lastly, in an industry that often takes itself too seriously, what do you do to stay playful and young at heart?

I never stop playing, even with the final samples for a shoot or lookbook. We sometimes open seams, wash them, spray them, and print them, with the only motivation to be curious, to see what happens. I think this openness and curiosity is something I aim for not only for our practice but for life in general.